First by car, then by plane, then by car, then by boat. It was night. Arriving at the dock felt like stepping into a scene from Lost’s Dharma Initiative, eerily lit, the sound of water lapping against the boat, some unknown location isolated in the rain forest.

Then by foot, bending and wriggling through the cave entrance, walking precariously on a metal bridge. Glacier water rushing beneath us, hungrily escaping the depths of this great earthen cave.